Devon is one of those ‘places’ that people keep going back to. It has a little bit of everything: big empty beaches, rolling green hills, rugged cliffs, sleepy villages, and bustling towns. It’s the kind of county that’s fab in summer with the sun shining but every bit as good when it’s freezing and you’re in a pub in front of the fire.
If you’re travelling or thinking about travelling, here’s a list of places that locals go, places they love, and places you will talk about after you’ve been. So, let’s go to Devon.
Dartmoor
You can’t write about Devon and omit Dartmoor. It’s wild, huge and open. A little spooky at times if the fog rolls in, though. But brilliant.
You have those big monumental granite tors you can scamper over — Haytor is a classic. Hound Tor’s another good one. Wild ponies just roam around like they own the place (because they sort of do).
There are rivers to paddle and streams to toddle in, ancient stone circles, and old clapper bridges such as the one at Postbridge. There’s this wonderful mix of beautiful views and that slightly spooky, timeless feel.
You are in heaven if you like to walk. Yet you don’t need to be Bear Grylls to appreciate it. Even a short stroll gets you cracking views.
Salcombe
In second spot on our list is Salcombe – it’s Devon’s glossy postcard town. It has turquoise water on a good day, and boats bobbing about, and handsome pastel houses climbing the hill.
It gets busy in the summer. The area is crawling with tourists, but there’s a reason why everybody goes. It’s gorgeous.
You’ll be able to take the little ferry over to East Portlemouth for quieter beaches, walk along the coast path for spectacular views, or just sit with a pint and stare at the water.
Shops peddle everything from posh beachwear to local fudge. And there’s always somewhere to get ice cream.
Clovelly
Clovelly’s like nowhere else. Perched on a stupidly steep hill that falls straight down to the sea, it has cobbled lanes and whitewashed cottages, with bright flowers all over the place. There are no cars, and believe it or not, these days, people still use sledges to get stuff up and down.
It’s a bit of a tourist hot spot now, but it still feels like a luxe treat. You can amble down slowly to the petite harbour, have a drink staring at the boats and try not to fall over on the way back up.
Donkeys that used to carry things — now they are there for the photos in summer.
Woolacombe Beach
If you want real sand and real room to breathe, Woolacombe’s hard to beat. It’s huge. Three miles of sand, dunes in the rear, waves worthy of surfers.
Families love it because there’s room to spread out. Kids will go bananas making sandcastles. They fit together so well. Even when it’s busy, there are always pockets of space.
Shops and cafés are close by for ice cream or chips. And when the sun sets behind the sea, it’s the kind of view you truly stop and watch.
Lynton and Lynmouth
Lynton and Lynmouth are two small villages connected by a cliff railway. Lynmouth is at sea level, with its small harbour, stony beaches and old-world feel.
Lynton’s up top. You can head up the water-powered railway (it’s slow and lovely and really old-school). Both are terrific places to wander around, have a cream tea and stare at the sea.
And you’re next to the Valley of Rocks. You’ll see wild goats clambering around, insane rock formations and the sea crashing down below. It’s a tad dramatic in the best way.
Exeter
And it’s not all countryside and beaches here in Exeter. Exeter is a proper city, but not too big to be friendly. The cathedral’s stunning. Even if you have no time for churches, it’s worth a peek.
Stroll along the quayside or have a pint by the river. There are many little cafés, stores, and spots to sit and watch the world go by.
It’s good for a base if you want to mix a bit of city with trips out to the coast or moors.
Totnes
Totnes is a little bit different because it’s got this laid-back, artsy vibe. There are bounds of independent shops, vintage clothes and health food cafés.
People joke it’s a bit hippy. But in a good way.
The town itself is pretty, with an old castle, narrow streets and the River Dart running through it. Market days are the best — lots of local stuff to buy, veg to crafts.
Dartmouth
Another classic Devon spot. It’s properly on the River Dart too, so it’s rammed with old buildings, narrow streets and enough pubs and cafés to keep you fed and watered all day.
You can watch the boats or take the ferry across to Kingswear, or hop aboard the steam train that hugs the coast.
Dartmouth Castle is situated at the mouth of the river with commanding views and a proper history.
Sidmouth
Sidmouth is for when you want an old-school seaside feel. It’s on the Jurassic Coast, so the cliffs are these spectacular reds.
The flat promenade is just right for a walk. Deckchairs in summer. Tea rooms everywhere. (It’s more sedate as there are fewer surfboards and more scones.
There are fine walks from the cliffs around it if you’re feeling in need of working up an appetite for cream tea.
Final Thoughts
Devon’s not hard to fall for. You can drive from moorland that is completely empty to surf-filled beaches in about an hour.
You can find yourself lost on winding lanes and stumble into a pub that is 400 years old.
You can eat fish and chips on the harbour wall, walk along the beach at sunset, or simply sit in a field and watch the clouds go by.
There’s no single “best” place. That’s the fun. You’ll find your own favourite. And chances are, you’ll want to return.
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